Threadbanger shows you How To Make Your Own Hoodie and other neat threadhead stuff
Diy: how to make a halter top out of t-shirt
A tutorial on how to make a halter top out of a t shirt you don't want anymore. A cheap and fun summer fashion craft item.
Summer is the perfect time to get creative with your clothing, even if you don’t know how to sew. With these instructions, you can turn any t-shirt that you don’t want anymore into a fun halter top, and there’s no sewing involved.
A tip before you get started: When you’re doing this for the first time, it’s recommended you not start with your favorite shirt. You may have to make more than one halter top out of a t-shirt before you really get good at this.
Supplies:
1) A shirt
You will need a t-shirt that you don’t want to wear anymore. It works best if this shirt is relatively form – fitting. It’s important that the shirt not be too big, or else it will sag too much to be wearable once it’s a halter top, but also make sure the shirt isn’t too tight. A tight shirt won’t provide enough surface material for what you’re going to do.
2) A sharp pair of Scissors, suitable for cutting fabric.
3) Chalk or soap for marking the fabric.
Step One:
Start by putting on the t-shirt. Using chalk or soap, make a mark where you’d like the neckline to be. If there’s something on the front of the shirt, keep in mind that it will be raised some once the shirt has been made into a halter.
Step Two:
Take off the shirt, and lay it out on a flat surface (a table would be best), front side up. Take your scissors and carefully cut off the sleeves in a diagonal from the underarm to the neck. Make sure you don’t cut too far into the shirt.
Step Three:
After you’ve cut the sleeves off, flip the shirt over, so that you’re looking at the back. Start at the bottom of the left arm hole and cut straight across, from the bottom of the left arm hole to the bottom of the right. Again, make sure you don’t cut this too low.
Step four:
Flip the shirt back over so that you’re looking at the front again, and spread the part with the neck hole out so that it is also flat on the table. Now you’re going to cut out the neck. Cut, starting from the shirt’s neck, in an even oval, making the lowest point of the neckline however low you made your mark with the chalk or soap.
Step Five:
Once the neck is done, all that’s left for you to do is cut the ties out of the remaining shirt fabric. Be creative – I sometimes cut an “L” shape out of the fabric in order to get a tie that’s long enough. Once you’ve cut ties that are long enough, yanking on them a bit should get the t shirt fabric to curl up and look how you want it to.
Directions to make a halter-style bra:
If you need something to wear underneath your halter, grab a bra you don’t mind cutting up. Now, simply snip the bra straps off of the back of the bra, and tie them around your neck – as if it were a bikini. It helps if the bra is close in color to the halter you’re wearing it under. If you’ve got more time, you can use a needle and thread or a sewing machine to put a couple of stitches into the straps, to make the halter bra more permanent.
Written by Stephanie Jacobs - © 2002 Pagewise
Do it yourself fashion: make a pair of capri pants from your old pants
This article discusses how to make a pair of capri pants from old long pants.
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http://www.essortment.com/hobbies/fashionmakecap_shlu.htm)
Clothes are expensive. So, when something goes out of style, or has a worn hem or cuffs, can it be recycled? Some things can. Pants can often be recycled into the retro-popular capri pants. Capris are great for warm weather, or when shorts are not desired. They're easy enough to make from a pattern, and remaking a pair of comfortable trousers isn't difficult, either.
The first thing to do is to choose the pants to be recycled. Jeans can be used, but be careful. The thick, doubled outside seam is nearly impossible to duplicate, so mistakes are hard to hide, and any tapering will have to be done from the inside only. Much more forgiving are plain poplin or twill pants, or knits. Warm-ups with a wide outside stripe may also be problematic, so again, the watchword is caution. Pants with large patch pockets probably are not good candidates, either, since the bottom of the pocket may go into the tapering. Think carefully about what tapering and hemming will do to the pants.
The next thing to do is remember that once the fabric is cut, it cannot be lengthened, so the old carpenter's adage, "Measure twice, cut once," is especially apropos here. A sewer can always cut off another quarter-inch, so it may be advisable to cut less off for the pants than originally thought. A hem will have to be taken, so the length needs to consider this, as well. So, a hemming gauge and some pins are good to have handy.
Capri pants can hit a range of lengths, from mid-calf to just below the knee. Personal preference rules here. Most capris hit about six inches from the ankle bone, or at the fullest part of the calf. The pants should be cut at least two inches below this though, for enough hemming allowance. However, the sewer should try the pants on inside out, and should have a friend roll the legs up to the desired length and pin them in place. The sewer should also decide whether any tapering is needed or wanted and if so, how much. More material is taken from the bottom, tapering to less at the top, and more is taken from the inside than the outside. However, the same amount should be taken from both sides of each pant leg, outsides matching outsides and insides matching insides. Pin the tapering again. Take off the pants and think: are they tapered so tightly that I can't get them off? If so, pull them back up and loosen the pins.
When the pants have been pinned, they will need to be cut off, tapered and then hemmed. Cut off the pants, at least two inches below the desired length. This will leave an unfinished edge for hemming. Tapering can be done by hand, or with a machine, since it is a straight stitch. This may be a good time to baste the tapering in place, pin the hem to the inside, fold down the seam allowance and try the pants on right side out, to see if the pants look right. If not, pull the basting out and try again. A basting stitch, by the way, is a long stitch used for just these purposes, since it is easily pulled from the fabric, but holds it together well enough to be fitted.
If all looks well, the sewer can sew just inside the basting, inside and outside the leg. Pull the basting stitches out and try the pants on again. If they still look right, the seam allowance can then be slit, trimmed and pressed outward.
Hemming works the same way. When the pants are tapered, baste or pin the hem in place and try on the pants, right side out. Raise or lower the hem as necessary and trim the excess material, if needed, making sure the same amount is trimmed from each leg. Use the hemming gauge to make sure. A one inch hem is usually sufficient and can be sewn quickly on a machine.
When the hem has been sewn, clip stray threads and try on the pants for the final time. Is the hem even on both sides? Are the legs the same width up and down on each leg? Yes? Congratulations! You just remade a pair of long pants into capris!
© 2002 Pagewise
Bonus - How to make a Scoodie - yeah..Thank The Craft Gods for Threadbanger
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